เป็นบทความนึงของจำนวนมากมายในการดูแลถุงมือ ในบอร์ดIFF
Falconry Equipment International
I do hope you dont mind me posting this and bear in mind it is a generalised posting a bout leather care generally so sorry if it is lsightly off topic, I am keen to try new products, sadly I have not tried mikeys porduct but it does sound interesting?
My backround is that I have been a working saddler for 35 years and making and sypplying falconry equipment for even longer
Regarding glove cleaning: If you glove has a large amount of cr*p on it, dried food ( yolk if you feed DOC’s with the yolk sac in) you will probably need to do the following approximately once monthly during the season. place your gloved hand under a hot tap / fawcet ( 60ºC or less) and let the clove become really soaked . At the same time use a blunt , old butter knife or some such to s****e this off. Then with a soft scrubbing / nail brush using an anti bacterial hand wash etc, scrub well into the leather . rinse again making sure All the soap has been removed. hang to dry in a natural environment. If it is a sued glove you will be able to bring the Nappa ( the suede) back up either with a soft brass brush, find sand paper or possibly even a dry soft nailbrush. you will find that it will take at least a couple of days yo dry so I would suggest doing this when you know the weather will be inclement to give the leather time to dry properly, you will also need to ‘wear’ the glove several times whilst drying , taking care to flex both hands, thumb and fingers to stop it drying hard.
Imo , DO NOT use neatsfoot it will ruin it. what I would suggest is letting it dry naturally, DO NOT dry in the sun, over radiator , in airing cupboard etc just in normal environment. you will find it gets a little stiffer having got so wet( see my advice re cleaning deer skin( nubuck ) glove .One of the problems with neatsfoot compound( so named after Vanner and Prest.. ceased to use real cow hooves in neatsfoot oil in 1929) is that whilst making leather pliable and water proof , it will also 'open up' the pores and so there fore allow muck or 'gunge' and bacteria etc an even greater harbour. It will also tend to make a glove go sticky and is very difficult not to 'over apply'. You could use neatsfoot but IF you do use it very very sparingly. having said that if there are better products on the market which will help enhance the longevity of the glove, why not embrace them?
Regarding jesses and use of Ko-cho-line Vs Neatsfoot oil/ Hydrophane / other leather oils : In my experience Ko-cho-line whilst a pain to apply, gets all over your fingers takes about a month of daily applications to make jesses fully pliable but once this level of care has been achieved you should find that the leather seems to become stronger, more flexible whilst retaining epidermal integrity. With Neatsfoot and other oils designed for heavy bridle type leathers etc . When applied to kangaroo or other leathers used for jesses such as Calf, Pigskin etc will soak in almost immediately therefor being soft and pliable straight away. the down side is strength seems to be compromised and the leather effectively becomes similar to a sponge and also is a lot easier to tear. Other problem you will have is it will take several days to dry out and will therefor be a little uncomfortable at times.
Therefore if applying to new Jesse leather esp roo it will tend to make it go spongy and therefore seems to lose strength. By using Ko-cho-line/ other grease the leather seems to 'strengthen , the epidermae effectively being kept tightly together . of course you can use neats foot compound but in moderation.
Neatsfoot does not rot leather. It will however, remove the beeswax that is on the thread, causing the stitching to rot.
Problems with Neatsfoot are partly due excess application, and applying when the leather and Neatsfoot are cold. It then sits on the top and will not soak in.
Generally only leathers tanned for the saddlery trade (or similar) will accept leather preservatives from the grain (shiny) side. This is because other leathers are 'case finished' with a sealer that makes them semi waterproof, so preservatives can only enter the leather from the flesh side, or through cracks in the grain side.
I have used Neatsfoot compound for many years either on its own or blended with other products is a very good product for keeping leather supple. However I would only advise to use this a) on an open grained leather where the animal has natural sweat glands/ pores in the skin as this allows the leather to . This does not happen IMO with a closed grain leather ( Roo / dog etc where there are no natural sweat glands or pores) the leather will take longer to take any substance but unless you are very careful yo will 'over oil' the leather the skin will swell and become spongy and very soft and pliable but lose a lot ( if not all ) of it's tensile strength. ( At this point I have to say I have seen a a new bridle and saddle ruined because they were dumped in a feed bin filled with neatsfoot.
By using a grease such as Ko-cho-line ( Or my own brand etc) this softens the leather , but keeps the epidermae tightly packed together and I have noticed with new leather it takes about a month of daily applications to get the leather to a satisfactory state that I really like, but it also seems to add the the tensile strength in the mean time. does all this make sense?
ในบ้านเรานิยมใช้ วาสลีน 100% หรือผสมน่ฃ้ำมันมะพร้าวสกัดเย็น 
บ้าน Events 
Publications 
สมัครสมาชิก(Register) 
เอาครีมบำรุงยี่ห้อไรดีท่าน ประมาณว่าขนาดว่าแม่บ้านยังใช้พอน แล้วเราเอายูซะลีนมาทาถุงมือ งานนี้เครียร์ย้ากกกกกก
